Working or Playing? » cooking

Scone Variation: Ginger‑Yam

Edward F. Gumnick — Tue, 03 Aug 2010 14:12:38 +0000

Thirty-one days of talking about fitness and eating better are all well and good, but we must not neglect life’s simple pleasures. I have a busy day scheduled—a meeting with my business partner, two meetings with clients, and a big project that’s ready for finishing touches before it goes to the printer. But in the interest of setting a joyful tone for the day, I reserved half an hour this morning to get a batch of scones into the oven.

With the encouragement of my friend and coach Gika Rector, I’ve been giving some thought lately to cooking as an art form. I’m overdue for grocery-shopping, so today’s performance started from the concept “What’s hiding in the pantry?” A can of yams and the last bit of a bag of crystallized ginger became my inspiration. (I also found some vacuum-packed salmon, but my artistic vision wasn’t bold enough for fish scones…yet.)

(Start with the basic scone recipe and instructions.)

Additional Ingredients

1 t cinnamon
A dash each of allspice, ground cloves, and/or nutmeg (or more to taste)
Optional: 1/4 t ground ginger (or more to taste), but only if you want the scones to be really spicy
3/4 c canned yams, drained
3 T crystallized ginger, minced
Cinnamon sugar for sprinkling

Instructions

Proceed with the first four steps of the basic scone recipe, adding the cinnamon, allspice, cloves, nutmeg, and ground ginger (if desired) to the dry ingredients before sifting.
At the point where the basic recipe calls for adding the dry and nearly-dry ingredients (step 5), add the crystallized ginger. Toss lightly to distribute through the dry ingredients.
Dice the yams into small chunks, or pass them once through a coarse slicer or a large-mesh cooling rack. The object is to break them into smaller pieces, but without smashing them into a paste. Add to the dry ingredients and toss very gently to distribute.
Continue with the basic recipe through the forming and cutting of the scone dough.
Sprinkle the tops with cinnamon sugar and bake according to the basic recipe. The yams contain a lot of moisture, so you may find that these require an extra two or three minutes in the oven.

Scone Variation: Chocolate Chocolate-Chip

Edward F. Gumnick — Sat, 05 Jun 2010 19:02:18 +0000

Image: Francesco Marino / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

I came up with this recipe and made it for the first time this morning. I’ve only eaten one of them, but I’m ready to call this an “instant classic,” a candidate for my scone hall of fame.

(Start with the basic scone recipe and instructions.)

Additional Ingredients

1/4 c cocoa powder
Additional 1 T granulated sugar
3/4 c semisweet chocolate chips
Heavy cream (or half-and-half, or more buttermilk) for brushing the tops
Sugar for sprinkling (Turbinado, Demerara, or white granulated sugar would be fine, or use a prepared sugar flavored with cinnamon or vanilla.)

Instructions

Proceed with the first four steps of the basic scone recipe, adding the cocoa powder and one extra tablespoon of sugar to the dry ingredients before sifting.
At the point where the basic recipe calls for adding the dry and nearly-dry ingredients (step 5), add the chocolate chips. Toss lightly to distribute them through the dry ingredients.
Continue with the basic recipe through the forming and cutting of the scone dough.
Brush the tops with cream, then sprinkle with the sugar of your choice. Bake according to the basic recipe.

Scone Variation: Apple Cinnamon Crunch

Edward F. Gumnick — Tue, 09 Mar 2010 02:00:45 +0000

Here’s another scone variation that’s been very well received by my tasters. They’re made with apples, so they must be good for you, right?

(Start with the basic scone recipe and instructions.)

Additional Ingredients

1 Granny Smith apple
1 t cinnamon (or more to taste)
1/2 t turbinado or demerara sugar
3 T all-purpose flour
2 T brown sugar
2 T butter
Pinch of salt

Instructions

Peel, core, and dice the apple.
Toss the apple pieces with 1/4 t of cinnamon and the turbinado or demerara sugar in a small bowl. Set aside.
Proceed with the first four steps of the basic scone recipe, adding 1/2 t of cinnamon to the dry ingredients before sifting.
At the point where the recipe calls for adding the dry and nearly-dry ingredients (step 5), add the sugared apple pieces. Toss lightly to distribute the apples through the dry ingredients.
Continue with the basic recipe through the forming of the scones.
Make a streusel topping by rubbing together 3 T flour, 2 T brown sugar, 1/4 t cinnamon, 2 T butter, and a pinch of salt.
Scatter the streusel on top of the dough disks. (It will go everywhere and make a mess, and you’ll have to eat cooked streusel off the baking sheet later. This is not a tragedy.)
Cut and bake the scones as directed in the basic recipe, starting at step 10.

Scone Variation: Cranberry Orange

Edward F. Gumnick — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 19:29:24 +0000

This is one of my most popular scone recipe variations. Dipping the scones into a powdered-sugar/juice glaze while they’re still warm gives them a crunchy, sweet-tart crust. (Start with the basic scone recipe and instructions.)

Additional Ingredients

1 orange, washed
1/2 c (or more to taste) dried cranberries
Powdered sugar (a few tablespoons)

Instructions

With a micro-plane, peel the zest from the orange. Slice the orange in half and squeeze the juice into a small bowl.
Proceed with the first four steps of the basic scone recipe.
At the point where the recipe calls for adding the dry and nearly-dry ingredients (step 5), stir in the dried cranberries and half of the orange zest.
Continue with the basic recipe through the forming of the scones. Brush the tops with buttermilk before baking.
While they’re baking, mix the remaining orange zest, orange juice, and enough powdered sugar to make a syrupy glaze.
A few minutes after they come out of the oven, dip the scones top‑down into the glaze. Allow the excess to run back into the bowl. Place them on a platter or clean baking sheet to cool.

Variations: Substitute one large lemon, two small lemons, or two limes for the orange. I haven’t tried using grapefruit yet, but it’s bound to be good, right?

Alice Bay Buttermilk Scones

Edward F. Gumnick — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 17:21:58 +0000

The scone recipe on which I’ve based my variations comes from the Alice Bay Cookbook by Julie Wilkinson Rousseau, care of my dear friend and sous-chef, Julie Brown. It contains recipes from the Alice Bay Bed and Breakfast. I don’t want to violate the copyright by reprinting the instructions, but here’s my slightly modified version of the ingredient list for that recipe, which you’ll need if you’re going to attempt to follow my elaborate instructions:

Ingredients

Constants

2 c unbleached all-purpose flour
3 T sugar
2 t baking powder
1/4 t baking soda
1/4 t salt
1/2 c cold butter, cut into small pieces

Variables

1/3 c raisins
1 T grated orange peel
1/2 c buttermilk
1 t sugar

Order the Alice Bay Cookbook 1986 edition from Amazon. Used copies start at $3.75. What a bargain! Or visit the Alice Bay web site and scroll to the bottom of the page, where you’ll find the recipe for Alice Bay French Toast.

Recipe: Steamed Polenta with Corn Kernels

Edward F. Gumnick — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 21:58:36 +0000

I made polenta for the first time at Christmas, but I found the stovetop method tedious and time-consuming. Then I had the idea to try making it in a rice steamer. I couldn’t find a recipe online that I liked, so I made up my own. I was very happy with the results, so here it is.

Ingredients

4 T butter
1 c fresh or frozen corn kernels (or more to taste)
Freshly ground black pepper
2 c chicken stock
1 c milk (I used 2%)
1 c dry polenta
1/8 t garlic powder or 2 cloves of garlic, finely minced
1/2 t dry basil leaves or 2 t fresh basil, finely chopped or as a chiffonade

Instructions

Prepare your rice steamer as you would for cooking two or three cups of rice. Mine is a Black & Decker, so preparation entails filling the base with water to the highest mark, then putting in place the outer perforated basket and the inner rice basket and plugging in the steamer.
In a two-quart saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat.
Add the corn kernels and a generous grind of black pepper. Turn the heat to medium-high. Saute until the corn starts to brown, between five and 10 minutes, depending on how brown and roasted you like it. (I like a lot of caramelization and chewiness in fried corn.)
Add the chicken stock and milk to the pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium low.
Sprinkle in the polenta a little at a time, whisking to avoid lumps as you go.
Once you’ve whisked in all of the polenta, stir in the garlic and basil. Remove from heat.
Pour the mixture into the rice basket of the steamer. Steam for 30 minutes. Stir the mixture. It will be fairly thick by this point. Smooth the surface back down with a large spoon or rubber spatula. Steam for 30 more minutes.
Spoon the mixture into a buttered 8″ square pan, buttered ramekins lined with buttered cheesecloth, or any other pan or mold that will yield an attractive presentation. Press down to get the polenta into the corners, using a piece of waxed paper to keep it from sticking to your fingers.
Allow the polenta to cool for at least two hours at room temperature or in the refrigerator. Remove from the refrigerator half an hour or so before the final stage of preparation to allow it to come back to room temperature.
Unmold the polenta, or if you’ve used a large pan, slice it with a knife or cookie cutter into individual servings.
The polenta can be served at room temperature with a hot sauce or topping, warmed in the oven, brushed with melted butter and grilled under the broiler, or fried for a few minutes in butter or olive oil.

Serves eight.

I molded the polenta in ramekins, then after unmolding, reheated it in the oven and served it as the base for grilled mild Italian sausages, slices of freshly charcoal-roasted red bell peppers, and Robin Miller’s Roasted Red Pepper Sauce.

Variations: Substitute turkey stock for the chicken stock and add some sage and thyme in place of (or in addition to) the basil, and your polenta will taste like cornbread dressing that was cooked inside a Thanksgiving turkey!

Or add some ground cumin and chili powder to the polenta, and then accompany it with taco-seasoned meat, salsa, and guacamole.

Infinite Variations on a Buttermilk Scone Theme

Edward F. Gumnick — Wed, 17 Feb 2010 22:58:53 +0000

Scone variations: (clockwise from top): Peanut butter frosted, potato and English cheddar, and chocolate crunch.

A lot of people have asked for my scone recipes. The truth is, I have one basic recipe, but I improvise every time I make scones. Take a look at the basic scone recipe, and then come back here to read about where I go from there.

The first six ingredients (flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and butter) are constants in all my variations, except for the quantity of sugar. I reduce the sugar to one tablespoon if I’m making savory scones or adding another sweetening agent.

The last four ingredients are variables; replace them with whatever other flavor elements, liquids, and toppings you care to substitute.

Liquids: Instead of buttermilk, you could substitute regular milk that you’ve curdled by adding a tablespoon or two of lemon juice or vinegar and warming gently for a minute in the microwave. Or put a small amount of yogurt or sour cream in a jar with enough milk to make up a total volume of a half cup, then shake to combine. Or try kefir, either plain or fruit-flavored. As long as you use a liquid with some acidity, you can hardly go wrong.

Also, consider adding vanilla or almond extract, liqueur, ricotta or another wet cheese, or vegetable puree, such as pumpkin or butternut squash. You could include a beaten egg; this will add richness, but will make the scones more cake-like instead of biscuit-y. If you use a large volume of liquid (more than a tablespoon or two), cut back on the buttermilk or other main liquid a bit to keep the total volume close to half a cup. (You can always add a little more buttermilk at the mixing stage if the mixture seems too dry.)

Sweeteners: Add two or three tablespoons of honey, molasses, corn syrup, or maple syrup, and cut back the white sugar to one tablespoon.

Dry (or nearly-dry) flavor ingredients: fresh or dried fruit, diced or shredded cheese, grated vegetables or greens, nuts, chopped onions or green onions, chocolate chips, fresh herbs, whole or crushed spices, seeds, oat bran, oatmeal, corn meal, artichoke hearts, crumbled bacon, diced ham or turkey, cooked sausage (diced or crumbled), raw cacao nibs, sauteed mushrooms. How long shall I go on?

If you’d like a strong taste of another grain or bran ingredient, either substitute it for some of the flour, or increase the amount of liquid a bit to compensate for the additional dry volume. (You want to keep the ratio of flour to liquid roughly four to one.)

Consider substituting whole wheat, rice, or graham flour for one cup of the white flour. Or substitute rye flour for 1/2 cup of the white flour.

Toppings: For sweet scones, brush the tops before baking with buttermilk, milk, cream, kefir, or egg wash, then sprinkle with white sugar, turbinado or demerara sugar. Mix a little cinnamon or cocoa powder into the sugar. Or make a crumb topping with 3 T flour, 2 T brown sugar, 1/4 t cinnamon, a pinch of salt, and 2 T cold diced butter, rubbed together until it looks like wet sand. Or leave the tops plain, and glaze the scones while they’re still warm or after they’ve cooled with a glaze made of any fruit juice, citrus zest, and powdered sugar. If you glaze them hot out of the oven, the glaze will soak into the crust a little, and some of it will run off. If you prefer, wait until they’re completely cool, then frost them instead.

For savory scones, try a dusting of Parmesan cheese, a grind of fresh black or white pepper. Or brush with melted butter or an egg beaten with a little cold water. Or sesame, poppy, sunflower, or pumpkin seeds.

Or try making filled scones! Just skip the cutting stage before baking. Instead, make a well in the center of the disk of dough. Fill it with a mixture of ricotta or cream cheese, egg, and sweet or savory flavorings—sugar and vanilla or a liqueur, or garlic, Parmesan cheese, and fresh herbs. Bake until the filling is firm and the crust is golden brown. After they’re cool, slice them into wedges. (Or shape the dough into individual-sized servings before you fill and bake them.)

Instructions

Grease or apply cooking spray to a sheet pan. Preheat the over to 375° F.
In a large mixing bowl, sift together the dry ingredients. (Go larger than you think you might need, because you’re going to need to get your hands in there.)
Cut the butter into tiny cubes with a sharp knife.
Toss the cubes of butter in the dry ingredients until they’re separated and coated with flour, then gently rub the butter into the flour until the mixture resembles wet sand. (I call this “Méthode Julie Brown.”)
Add any dry or nearly-dry flavoring ingredients. Toss to mix thoroughly. (You want to do this before you add the buttermilk, because once the buttermilk goes in, you want to handle the dough as little as possible.) Make a well in the center.
Add the buttermilk and any other liquid ingredients, such as extracts, honey, molasses, or wet cheeses. With a wooden spoon, stir until the ingredients are mostly gathered together. Don’t worry if some of the dry ingredients aren’t sticking; it’ll all come together in the next step. But if the mixture seems very dry, add another splash of buttermilk or other liquid.
[What if the mixture is too wet? If the mixture looks like chocolate-chip cookie dough or even wetter than that, you’ve probably used too much liquid. Don’t worry! They’ll still be delicious. But you’re better off not trying to knead and shape them, or they’ll get tough. Just use a couple of tablespoons to scoop lumps of dough onto the sheet pan, then add toppings and bake.]
With your (clean) hands, scrape any dough off the spoon. Then use your hands to squeeze together as much of the dough as you can into one big lump. Push it around the inside of the bowl a few times to gather up all the loose bits of dry stuff. You can use a gentle kneading action at this stage to get everything incorporated. Once it’s all sticking together, give it one or two more kneads with the heal of your hand to even out the consistency, then press the dough into a ball or log.
Tear the dough into two or three pieces of similar size. (Two pieces will yield eight finished scones; three will give you a dozen mini-scones.) Shape each piece into a rough ball, then place it on a greased or cooking-sprayed sheet pan. (Instead of greasing the pan, you could line it with parchment paper or a Silpat instead.) Press the ball into a flat disk. Don’t worry if the edges split here and there. (Or do. It’s up to you. If you don’t like cracks, use the palms of your hands to smooth the edges a little.)
Brush on a little cream, milk, buttermilk, or other wash, then sprinkle with sugar or other topping.
Use a large, sharp knife to cut each disk into four wedges. At the end of each cut, rock the knife a bit from side to side to create a narrow valley across the scones. The scones will grow together in the first part of the baking, but these cuts will help you pull them apart.
Bake for 20 minutes. Remove the pan from the oven and use a metal spatula to pull the wedges apart so they’re no longer touching one another. Proceed with caution, as the scones will still be a bit wet and steamy-hot!
Return the pan to the oven, rotating it 180 degrees from its original orientation. Bake for a few more minutes—anywhere from 5 more to 15 more, depending on the flavoring ingredients you used. You’re looking for golden-brown crust, but you want to retain some moisture so the scones will keep for a couple of days. If you’re not sure, take one out of the oven and break it open.
Don’t worry! If your timing is off, they might be a little dry or a little too moist, but your experiments will probably still be delicious. And after a few batches, you’ll know exactly what “done” looks like.